Nagoya/Sapporo: 9th Feb 2016

As this trip was planned to cover winter illuminations, we thought it would be a waste if we missed the Sapporo Snow Festival, which was ongoing during the period when we were at Japan. Hence, we made the decision to purchase the domestic flight tickets by Vanilla Airlines to New Chitose Airport, Sapporo.

From JR Nagoya station, we made our way to Chubu International Airport via the uSky Limited Express train. It was about a 30min ride. Pretty short as compared to the train ride from Tokyo city centre to Narita Airport. It was our first time to Chubu International Airport and checkin was rapid and smooth that we have plenty of time exploring the airport.

So we had breakfast there and explored the observation deck which was an outdoor facility.. It was cool watching the planes ascend and descend on the runway with close proximity. Something that I do not get to see back at home. There were several photographers there deeply immersed in their passion in shooting the planes.

We took about 1.5h to reach New Chitose Airport. There was an 1h delay before we boarded the plane as our flight was delayed due to snowstorm at Hokkaido. Sounds pretty scary and we were worried this flight would be cancelled due to snow conditions. Fortunately, it went smooth and we landed safely at New Chitose. Initially, I made plans to reach our Sapporo Grand Hotel via limousine bus. However, due to bad weather conditions, all bus trips were cancelled. Train is the only way to reach the city centre. It was already snowing heavily and the temperature was really really cold as compared to Nagoya. We had to put on additional layers of clothes to keep warm.

This hotel was extremely convenient for exploring Sapporo city and Susukino area as it was smacked in the middle between these two places. The last time when I was at Sapporo, I remembered the Tsuchiura Ramen Shop at the Ramen Alley in Susukino was very tasty. So after checkin, we walked to the shop and had a very satisfying meal.

After dinner, we walked around Susukino and there were already many ice sculptures in the vicnity.

This was a different stretch from the ones near Odori Park and Sapporo TV Tower.

It was a very pleasant walk despite the chilly wind from Susukino to Odori Park. The entire city was filled with illuminations and dazzling lights.You could see everyone tucked in their warm winter suits and anti-slip boots while taking photos with the ice sculptures. I must say it was pretty slippery and you could really fall down hard if you are not careful!

Sapporo TV tower with Domokun

The sculptures at Odori Park kept us awed and impressed at their intricate details. There were also many food stalls selling BBQ food, and grilled oysters, king crabs.. mainly seafood. You cannot miss the chance to have seafood when in Sapporo! Topped it up with Sapporo Beer that tasted really good in this winter.

As this was our last night in Japan, we spent the entire time at Odori Park doing people watching and enjoy all parts of this festival. I must say the organization of this festival was really impressive that many locals and tourists flocked to Sapporo during this period. In fact, this is usually the peak period for travel to Sapporo city. So if you wanna visit the winter festival, you gotta book everything in advance including hotel!

A cold, wintry start for our Lunar Chinese New Year 2016!

But, we never regretted coming here. Although there was minimal CNY atmosphere in Japan since the Japanese celebrated new year on 1st Jan, we felt totally relaxed and a fulfilling trip thus far with all important winter illuminations visited!

Till then, more Japan adventures to come in future :D

Teshikaga/Kushiro: 28th Feb 2015

We woke up not because of the alarm clock, but due to hearing the strong howling wind outside our windows and yes, everywhere was heavy snow. Snowstorm was still continuing strong. It was the first time I thought snow could be a danger. Mostly because in Singapore, we do not experience snow and we find snow to be a beautiful season. Of course it is, but too much of something always bring along danger!

We packed up and quickly checked out. Today, Takashi-san was not there to receive us. Instead, his colleague, whom I had forgotten her name, met up at the lobby. The vehicle she came by to pick us was not as big as previous days. But Takashi-san told us that she is a professional driver.

We struggled moving our luggage to the van as the snow had reached to our kneecap level. Praying for the best, we steadily moved ourselves and our barangs up the van.. Hoping to set off. But, something happened! The van could not move or budge at all due to the heavy snow. This lady driver could only speak Japanese and minimal English. In fact, I was trying my best to understand what she meant whenever she said something. I could see she was also frustrated with the snow. We helped her out by shoving the ice beneath the wheels away..and some of the guys helped to push the van. It was a real challenge!

Finally, we got some help from the hotel too. I remembered we spent 1.5hours just in the snow, hoping to move the van. At the end when we finally reached the main road where snow level is much lower, our van could finally move and we were all elated with joy! Initially, we planned to visit Lake Kussharo again but with the weather like that, it was impossible. So, to avoid any delays in boarding our plane, we decided to make our way to Kushiro Airport.

I must say this lady driver is indeed a professional, not just in driving, but also in wild-life spotting! She told us not to worry, we should reach Kushiro Airport on time. She even tried to suggest some places we could visit as it was still very early. But, this worrisome bunch of Singaporeans cant wait to reach the airport haha..

Along the way, she suddenly drove to a small road and told us to get down but keep quiet. Initially, I wasnt sure what she meant and what was the purpose. Then, she mentioned owl in japanese.. I was surprised and stunned as she pointed out Ural Owls resting in the tree holes at a protected area. This was simply an unexpected discovery! Although the slope to reach the area was quite steep, we managed our way and took many photos of this beautiful Ural Owl. What luck!!

After that, we made our way back to the van and then, our female driver spotted another young Sika deer along the roadside. None of us spotted the deer. And I felt the deer was giving us a smile to say Sayonara just before we left Hokkaido! I would never forget this scene!

As there was still time and we were appraoching Kushiro Airport, I made a suggestion to have a brief stop at Kushiro Washo market for some seafood quick brunch! Since all of us did not have any breakfast earlier on.. In Kushiro, the main attraction is really this market, which offers the best seafood as compared to Sapporo and other parts of Hokkaido. It works in a way, you buy a bowl of rice according to the amount you want, then you visit other stores and buy sashimi to place it on top of your rice. And there are benches for you to rest and have a meal! I got some crab legs from hairy crab and snow crab. They were really fresh! I wished I had visited Kani Honten at Sapporo but due to lack of time, I didnt :( Leave it for the next trip then!

My mini-crab feast

Busy day at Washo Market

 So after a short 30min at the market, we set off for Kushiro Airport which is about 20min drive away. Bade farewell to the female driver and I said O-tsukaresamadeshita to her! It meant thank you for her hard work. I could not have imagined what will happen if we did not get away from the heavy snowstorm-laden road! It was indeed a wonderful trip with an adventurous moment putting an end note to our stay in Hokkaido. A 1h flight to Tokyo, and we left the mountaineous Hokkaido with huge spans of winter landscape to an urbanised Tokyo! All seen from the plane window.

And I said farewell to the rest of the photographers who would be continuing their journey to Nagano to see the snow monkeys. It was an amazing trip! Adventure! Wildlife! Discoveries! Onsen! Gourmet! You name it, we did it! As a team :) I really look forward to visit Hokkaido during the summer season in the near future! Probably to areas like Furano, Biei where picturesque landscapes have often captivated my eyes when I read brochures related to these places. Hope to catch Takashi-san again as my guide in future trips to Hokkaido!

In any case, if anyone is keen to engage Takashi-san as your tour driver in Hokkaido, you may contact him via the details below. It's tough to find Japanese drivers in Hokkaido who can also speak English and Im glad to know him through this trip :).Also, thank you for C.S.Ling Photography for helping to coordinate this trip.

Contact:

Japanese Guide: Mr Takashi Miura

www.go-hokkaido.com

Email: info@go-hokkaido.com

Wildlife Photography Trip Organizer
By C.S Ling Photography

Rausu/Yoroushi: 26th Feb 2015

Again, our alarm clock did not fail us and we did not disappoint ourselves. We woke up punctually at 4am, got ready by 430am and set off to board our boat to catch the intense action of the Steller's sea eagles!

Today, the sunrise was really beautiful. You could see the sun slowly approaching upwards, with very nice shades of gold, yellow and orange creating beautiful light in the sky. The eagles were already on standby, awaiting for food. I found a good seat this time and I desperately needed it. Reason being on the previous day, I was on my knees and in the end, had much bruises on them that I could not bend my legs well :( So a seat was much needed this morning!

Some tango among the eagles

Crow on the left, Steller's sea eagle on the right.

No crow/eagle is going to catch its fish!

Trying to perfect its landing

Close-up photo of the Steller's sea eagle

3 hours of intense shooting and I saw much action that day. We were anticipating what we saw yesterday. We were all trying to get better shots than the previous day haha. In fact, today I ditched my tripod in the car as it was so tough juggling both the tripod and myself on balance on the boat.

All of us felt pretty satisfied and we made our way back to hotel for our breakfast. So looking forward to a hot bowl of miso soup at that instant!!

After breakfast, we packed our stuff, rested a while, before meeting Takashi-san to drive to Yoroshii. I went to say farewell to Kuma-san, the dog in the hotel. He was just too adorable and I gotta take a last look of him :)

We took a brief stop at a museum which showcased the various wildlife that one can catch at Shiretoko Peninsula. A pity we didn't manage to see the seals. We thought we saw one..but end up it was a Stellar's sea eagle :( Talking about daydreaming -_-

The beautiful landscape outside the museum

We set off for Yoroushi and along the way, we spotted so many deers! Beware of the photos below..nothing but the deers!

They spotted us and ran away! 

Luckily, we spotted more deer as we drove towards Yoroushi. Some battle happening real-time!

    

Taking huge heaps of fresh air

Father and child : Connection

Then, we drove past along the coastline and saw few wandering deers, looking through for some food in the midst of snow and debris.

          

I love animal photography. One of the reasons is that I learn the animal instinct from them. Many times, man will think that he is the smartest living being on earth. But animals do have their intelligence as well. Just like how they signal to each other whether there are vehicles coming along their way and making sure it is safe before crossing the road. It is through animal photography that I practice patience so that I can capture and witness these priceless moments of communication between the animals. 

And so the whole herd of deers quickly made their way across the road. Safety is the utmost importance.

Drift ice along the drive

It was already 2pm by the time we had lunch. Time just passed when you are busy snapping away haha..and we didnt really felt the hunger. What shocked us is the huge servings of food served at that particular restaurant. 

The food was oishii but the amount was too much for us to take in. A single meal could be a better choice for 2 person sharing haha.. Then we learnt from the guide that people staying around this area are all farmers who work very hard, and they have big appetite. Hence, the food serving size is usually big to cater for them. Now we appreciate the reason haha.

After lunch, we slowly made our way to our hotel at Nakashibetsu town. There is only one road to this hotel. It is pretty secluded. The hotel is known as Yuyado-Daiichi

I can tell you this is the most posh onsen/ryokan accomodation I have ever stayed in. I will go visit again in the future!!It is so much better than in Kinosaki and Shibu onsen area haha. This I believe is the splurge factor of the trip!

The spacious lobby which we did all our shooting

We hoped to see some martens at the area. An excellent place for photography as the hotel lobby is facing large window panels, which faces the forest outside. So you could witness any animal action and photograph them while in comfort and warmth!

And our guide informed us that the onsen at this ryokan was the top best! It is a must try and of course I would not miss the chance!

Upon reaching the hotel, I changed and marched straight to the onsen hahaha..and it was just about sunset...so the rotenburo(outdoor onsen) offered spectacular views of the forest! It was a luxury as you immersed in the hot onsen while enjoying snow falling on your head :)

Something which I always envy while watching Channel News Asia's Japan Hour haha

And after freshening up, I headed to the lobby to meet the rest of the gang. We were awaiting the sight of any wildlife right outside the hotel window. After waiting for 1h or so, suddenly there was a big commotion at one corner. A Blakiston's fish owl was spotted! 

It was our first encounter and we were overwhelmed at this sight! The boss of the hotel commented that we were very lucky to spot this owl right in front of the hotel!

If not, we might be spending hours in the snow awaiting the arrival of this owl!

Everyone were so excited. Any slight movement of the owl was accompanied with heaps of camera clicks haha.. well I guess the owl must be very proud to have captured such an attention!

You can see how happy the owl was, savoring its catch!

And then, another person alerted us to another owl, which was hidden above the branches in the trees! Goodness! Two owls that night. It's likely the martens would hide though, as they knew there were the owls around... too bad , we did not spot any martens :(

With that owl-watching for 1.5h, we were famished and headed off for our long-awaited dinner.

The total number of dishes served was astonishing! We almost could not finish every single of them. But, it was real whole luxury for all of us! I didn't take any pictures as I was too famished but the food quality was really good!

To celebrate a wonderful night, some of us headed off for onsen again before resting!

It's my first time doing onsen at night. A memorable experience too :)

Rausu: 25th Feb 2015

So the alarm clock rang at 4am and I woke up with a tinge of reluctance as I didnt have good sleep for the past few days.. we woke up..got prepared..stacked tons of heatpads into our clothes..to brace the cold wind while on board the boat.

It was a first time experience for many of us. A short drive away from the hotel and we arrived at the port. We put on life jackets in addition to the layers of clothes which we already had. Armed with a tripod, we selected strategic positions, hopefully to capture some good shots of the eagles that were about to arrive as we ventured out to the sea..

And then, we saw the beautiful sun and the huge slabs of frozen sea ice..it's just a WOW in my freezing brain! I have never imagined seeing all these appearing in front of me. There were many sea gulls, Stellar eagles, white-tailed sea eagles flying in all directions, trying to snap fish and fighting food with one another. Sometimes, it was just interesting to stop looking at all these through the eyepiece of the camera, but just look at them with our own eyes to appreciate what the wild and nature has to offer.

White-tailed sea eagle trying to defend against the surrounding crows.

Steller's sea eagle in anti-parallel orientation

Fight between the Seagulls

The beautiful mountains which encompassed the sea where all the action were taking place.

Ferocious Tear to exhibit its hunger

A crab feast for the seagull.

I really appreciated the moment to observe how eagles fight for food, how crows try to be a "pest" and snatch some fish meat while the eagles were feasting away, how eagles got irritated by the crows and shoo-ed them off!

All these are moments that could not be witnessed in the boundaries of a zoo/birdpark. So it was pretty amazing to most of us although the biting cold was unbearable after an hour or so. I loved the majestic mountain that formed the backdrop, together with the drift ice in the foreground, as well as the subjects..

A 3h session passed on quickly and we arrived back to land.. trying to gain some composure without having any cold feet. Some of us were complaining we could no longer feel our hands and feet! Hard to believe but it was the cold fact!

We rested back at hotel for our well-deserved breakfast..and we drove out to spot any wild life along the way. We took a rest at some restaurant for lunch and recollected memories that we saw while at the cruise. 

Kuma-san, the dog at the hotel

The landscape that we saw along the drive was spectacular, no doubt all was white. . we tried spotting around, hoping to see some wildlife..if not dogs/cats..then we suddenly saw a cat-like creature, or rather it was me who shouted cat! when...it was actually a fox haha...

I mistook this as a cat!

The Japanese Red Fox contributing some stuff to the snow. Talking about natural process in nature!

A very dreamy feeling about this fox. It seemed that our dream had came true. 

nonetheless, many of us got really excited and we hopped out of the car, trying not to scare the fox away and took multiple shots of the fox as it crossed the road to climb up the mountain haha!

Crossing the road in a steadily manner.

One last look at the human population (us) before it disappeared into the woods.

Beware of foxes in the woods!

 and then, some of us saw the most magical thing..we saw three male deers moving on top of the hill that had beautiful trees..that was too fast to capture with our camera unfortunately..if you could allow me to image..it look somewhat like this..it was like a scene taken from a magical fairytale! And having to spot them during sunset made the moment even special.. that's why I love to travel..it is such unexpected moments that will live forever in your memory even after years have passed :)

So a fox was spotted..and we hoped for more wildlife to appear in front of our eyes. but there was none haha..so we called it a day..returned back to hotel for some onsen before dinner again.

It was a pity we did not get to experience the crab feast that night but was treated to a different type of meal... which was either you like it or you dont like it although the locals said to us that was a popular dish haha...well it was subjective!

Time for a good rest before our second boat trip early tomorrow morning!

The only pain in this trip was to wake up early almost every day.. but the reward we got back was usually immensely satisfying.. you live only once!